Mehrauli Archaeological Park

Mehrauli Archaeological Park

We visited Mehrauli Archaeological Park on 4th August 2019, the access to this is from Mehrauli-Gurgaon Road, just off the Qutub complex. The park mainly contains Tomb of Balban, Quli Khan Tomb, Jamali-Kamali Masjid, Metcalfe Canopy etc.

Tomb of Balwan

It was narrated by Ibn Batuta that one day in Bukhara, a sufi dervish asked a young, not a good-looking boy, to bring an orange for him. The boy got one orange purchased and brought to the dervish, who became very happy and blessed him that I have given you the sultanate of Hindustan (India) to you.

Later after several years, hundreds of slaves were brought before Iltutmish, then the king of Delhi. He purchased all but one – the same boy from Bukhara. That slave asked the king who do you purchase these slaves for? "For my own use", was the  reply of Iltutmish. He then requested why don’t you purchase me too for Allah. Iltutmish became very happy with the reply and purchased him too.

That slave worked in the court of Iltutmish and awarded the work of filling water. Later, he rose through ranks and became one of 40 esteemed viziers of Iltutmish. That boy from Bukhara was the same slave and was known as Ghiyasuddin Balban (1200-1287), one of the most powerful sultan of sultanate period. Balban was deputy to Nasiruddin Mahmud (1246-1266), who was also his son-in-law. He was effectively running the kingdom and then he became king after Mahmud’s death in 1266 and reigned till his death 1287. He considered himself as the descendants of mythical Persian kings and used to lofty standards. It is said that no one has seen him in laughing or jovial mood and he used to be serious always and had broken the back of elite courtiers, who were hitherto very powerful. It is also said that he always used to be in his formal royal dress.

His tomb lies in the Mehrauli Archaeological park  in a quite dilapidated condition. It was in the midst of an old settlement, the ruins of which were evident while approaching the tomb. It is said that he got erected a structure, known as Dar-ul-Aman (Place of Peace), where anyone can enter and put his problem, which will then become the problem of the state and got resolved. Therefore, in a way, people could get their problems resolved and lived in peace, hence Place of Peace. It is the same place where Balban was buried. It is also considered that his elder son Muhammad, known as Khan Shahid, was also laid in the adjacent chamber, who got killed in Multan fighting Mongols in 1285. Balban liked his elder son very much and his death broke him down and could not be able to live a year or so more. The structure is, though imposing rubble masonry, in complete ruin and even the approach road is through bushes and no proper pathway has been made. The structure was built of quartzite, which is locally available stone.

Jamali-Kamali Mosque

There are two structures by this name situated adjacent to each other– one is a mosque and another a mausoleum. The mausoleum complex contains  a number of graves and a covered grave of Jamali-Kamali. The interior of the chamber is quite ornamented but was not allowed to enter. It was considered that Shaekh Fazlullah was a sufi saint and was popularly known as Jamali. He was contemporary of Sikandar Lodi to Babur and Humayun. The antecedents of Kamali is not known but was associated with Jamali and are buried adjacent to each other. The graves inside are of marble and intricate carvings and letters engraved are legible. The graves in the complex are in good condition with engravings clearly visible. It was built during 1528-29.

The mosque is adjacent on the south of the tomb and is a wonderful example of Indo-Islamic architecture. Red sandstone, Marble and local quartzite stones are used in the mosque. The inner main prayer chamber has beautiful carvings and few Quarnic verses are engraved, which are still clearly legible. The floor is in square shape, whereas the roof is circular, a great piece of symmetry and architectural marvel. The mosque has five arches and the middle one is the largest and the most decorated. The mosque is huge, imposing and architecturally pristine. It is believed to be constructed during 1528-29. You would feel a sense of serenity while entering the mosque, which I felt there.

Tomb of Quli Khan

Moving towards North from the Jamali-Kamali mosque, one passes through beautifully profiled and maintained gardens on either side. One would reach this tomb site though a long culvert, which was constructed by Thomas Metcalfe, a British officer in Delhi. It was believed that he got constructed an artificial lake around the Quli Khan Tomb and culvert was the passage over the lake. He also used to visit the sites on boats.

The tomb of Quli Khan is an imposing structure of octagonal in same, placed on a raised pedestal. The gates of the tombs are intricately engraved with Quranic verses. Muhammad Quli Khan was the brother of Adham Khan, son of Maham Anga, the wet nurse of emperor Akbar. It was built in 17^th century.

Later the structure converted into a picnic retreat by Thomas Metcalfe, who enlarged the structure, creating lake in surroundings, water courses and pavilions. He named it as Dilkhusha (the pleasure of heart). He also got constructed a number of Follies and canopies nearby, one of which is intact in the park opposite Jamali- Kamali mosque.

Ideal time to visit

• Can be visited any time, preferably forenoon, round the year. 
• One needs to be ready with sports shoes, full sleeve shirt and water bottles.
• No tickets in any monument.

Places not to be missed
(with link to Wikipedia page)

• Balban's Tomb
• Settlement around Balwan's tomb
• Jamali-Kamali Mausoleum
• Jamali-Kamali Mosque
• Quli Khan's Tomb
• Metcalfe's addition to Quli Khan's tomb
• Metcalfe's Canopy
• View of Qutub Minar from the park

Some timelines

	Time Period	Reigns
Balban’s Tomb	1287
Jamali-Kamali Mausoleum	1528-29	Sikandar Lodi, Babur, Humayun
Jamali-Kamali Mosque	1528-29	Sikandar Lodi, Babur, Humayun
Tomb of Quli Khan	17th Century	Akbar

Nearest Metro Station - Qutub Minar (on Yellow line)


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