Visit to Kotla Firoz Shah

We visited Firoz Shah Kotla fort on 18^th August 2019. It was a rainy day with intermittent rain showers were making the day beautiful and lively. The complex is on Bahadur Shah Zafar (BSZ) marg near Khooni Darwaza, on the right side while coming from ITO. It could not be imagined to have a such a fortified city complex from the hustle-bustle of  BSZ marg.

A giant tree in the midst of fort

The three notable \sultans of Tughlaq dynasty were Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq, Muhammad Tughlaq and Firoze Shah Tughlaq and all of them built a separate city/ fortress in Delhi namely Tughlaqbad Fort, Jahan Panaah and Firozabad Fort respectively.

This visit of ours is limited to Firozabad, established by -Sultan Firoze Shah Tughlaq (1351-1388) in 1354 as new capital. It is said that he extensively surveyed the area and then chose the area adjoining to River Yamuna for his new capital and named it Firozabad, which is now known as Firoze ShahKotla. Kotla means the fortress. On the east of this fort, river Yamuna was flowing, which is now about a kilometer or more away.

Western view of the fort from an arch

The foundation of the fort is on well foundation, its submerging in water is essential for its strength, which was available then due to vicinity of River Yamuna. It is assumed that due to shifting of Yamuna away might also be one of the reasons of dilapidation of the fort due to weakening of foundation, apart from other causes. West Gate of the fort was the main entrance and the pathway leading to inner is zigzag. Historians narrated that the fortress was white in colour and quite resplendent.

The fort has three main courtyards in the fortress as per the narration of Shas-e-Shiraz Afif, the court historian of the Sultan in his book Tarikh-e-Firozshahi, for Firoz Shah Tughlaq to meet different people. The first one while entering from Western Gate is called as Mahal-e-Sahan-e-Gilin (the Palace of the clayey court). It was also called Mahal-e- Dakh or Mahal-e-Angur (the Palace of Grapes), as it is said that the Sultan got nine kinds of grapes cultivated here in his palace. This palace was earmarked for reception of the nobles, emirs, literary men etc. with provisioning for cultural programs. Further east to it is the second palace, known as Mahal-e-bari-amm or the Palace of the public court and it was also called Sahn-e-Miyanagi or the Central Quadrangle. This palace was used for meeting of Sultan with his populace or the common people. The third palace was further east on the banks of Yamuna and near his palace, which is know as Mahal-e-chhhajja-e-chobin (the palace of the wooden gallery) and it was meant for personal guests of Sultan with special attention. 

Ruins of Kotla Firoz Shah

It is said that the economic condition was poor when Firoz Shah took over the reigns and he immediately started working to reviving economy by building new irrigation channels and reviving old irrigation channels, so that the agricultural produce increase leading the general welfare. He also got built many schools, rest houses (sarai), gardens , hospitals, canals etc.

The complex contains cloisters and blocks for sepoys and soldiers. Building for Sultan and queens. One big mosque, known as Jami Masjid, a pyramidal structure adjacent to Masjid for establishing Ashokan Pillar and a step well (baoli). The structure is completely built on random rubble masonry, covered by dressed stones and followed by white plaster. Such masonry is protected by plaster and once plaster goes away the rubble masonry is exposed leading to its gradual wearing away, as is the case. The whole fort complex is at a raised level as the buildings on eastern side like Masjid, pyramid, Palaces for sultan and queens are adjacent to Yamuna and has two floor beneath it at the level of Yamuna.

The Palace of Sultan has a big central chamber with smaller chambers on all side perfect vents/ windows for flow of air as well as light. The Palace of queen(s) five chambers with bigger central chamber and two smaller chambers on either side.  The positioning of these buildings is very strategic as it would have given a very astounding and beautiful view of Yamuna, flowing with all its might and grandeur. It is here the wooden structure were built along with furnishing with beautiful clothes to create Mahal-e-Chhajja-Chobin for hosting special guests overlooking River Yamuna on the east.

The Jami Masjid is on the North of the Sultan’s chamber and is a grand as looked from its remains. It has a number of chambers at two bottom floors, on which the top mosque structure is erected. The chambers so built are on the all four sides of the mosque, whereas central structure is solid. It is narrated by Shams-e-Shiraz Afeef, the court historian of Firoz Shah Tughlaq, that there were 60 pillars, on which the central dome of the Masjid rested.

View of Jami Masjid from Ashokan Pillar

The central structure has already been collapsed.  It looks like that the centre of the Masjid contained a water tank for wudhu (ablution) for prayers. The Masjid has the entrance from North, unlike other mosques where it is from East, as there is no space for entry from East. Taimur Lang, while retreating from Delhi after plundering it, offered prayer at this mosque and was utterly impressed with the architecture and grandeur of the mosque. So much so that he brought few architects and masons along with him to Samarkand, where he got built one such mosque in similar pattern.

View of Ashokan Pillar from South-East

On the north of the mosque is the pyramidal structure that the Sultan got built for erecting the Ashokan Pillar, brought from Ambala. The pyramidal structure has three storeys , containing small chambers with arches and was built in 1356. The central portion of the structure is solid, which holds the pillar. The pillar is made of monolithic stone, said to be originally chiseled from the hills of Chunar near Mirzapur. The pillar was originally 42 feet high out of which about 6 feet is inside and weighing 42 tonnes. Top of the pillar, which is said to have a brass canopy with gold polish, got broken due to lightening strike. It was engraved near the structure how sophistically/ delicately the pillar was carried from Ambala to Delhi at its present location through bullock carts and boats. In contemporary records, Ashoka pillar is called as 'Minar i Zarin' (The Golden Minar). The inscription is in Brahmi script Prakrit language, which was successfully deciphered by James Prinsep. The pillars were originally got prepared by King Ashoka to appeal people to follow Dharma, moral principals and freedoms.

View of Ashokan Pillar from South-West

The pillar at Kotla Firoz Shah has unique distinction that it has seven Ashokan inscriptions unlike other such pillar which has six inscription. Other kings of later period too got some inscriptions  The pillar is still smooth enough that it reflects the light. Firoz Shah Tughlaq also brought one more pillar from Merrut and got installed at its Shikargaah near Hindu Rao Hospital in the ridge.   

On the North-West of  this structure lies a big step well (baoli) for availability of water for the inmates of the fortress. The baoli is circular in shape can be stepped into the well through steps. The baoli is classical water harvesting mechanism of old times, which suggests that people then too were conscious of the water conservation.

Baoli from top of pyramidal structure

The baoli has a number of apartments structure both below ground and above ground. It also a number channels for bringing water from outside to the baoli. There is a big channel way on the east of the baoli lining it to the Yamuna River, so that the excess water from the baoli will go into the river. The channel is of arch shaped and so big that a person can easily go through it.

The complete structure is made up of random rubble masonry and in ruins because of many reasons as narrated below. First and foremost, later kings got there capital shifted to other places and used the stones and tiles from this palace, as easily available, for their construction. Secondly, as the structure is built of random rubble masonry, and once the outer plaster removed, the masonry got exposed leading to its gradual wear and tear, which is still continuing. Thirdly, as the eastern structure housing main buildings like kings & queens palaces, mosque, pyramidal structure etc. were based on well foundation, which sources its strength from continuous availability of water. The same got weakened over the years once River Yamuna moved a few kilometer away from it.

Places not to be missed
(with link to Wikipedia page)

• Jami Masjid
• Ashokan Pillar
• Pyramidal Structure
• Palace for Sultan
• Palace for queens
• Baoli (Circular step well)

Nearest Metro Station - ITO and Delhi Gate (on Violet line)

(online ticket booking)           Archaeological Survey of India

Gallery

Another view of Ashokan Pillarp

Inner entrance gate from West side

Inscription on Ashokan Pillar

Ashokan Pillar

Inner view of Jami Masjid

Another view of Jami Masjid

Mehrauli Archaeological Park

Mehrauli Archaeological Park

We visited Mehrauli Archaeological Park on 4th August 2019, the access to this is from Mehrauli-Gurgaon Road, just off the Qutub complex. The park mainly contains Tomb of Balban, Quli Khan Tomb, Jamali-Kamali Masjid, Metcalfe Canopy etc.

Tomb of Balwan

It was narrated by Ibn Batuta that one day in Bukhara, a sufi dervish asked a young, not a good-looking boy, to bring an orange for him. The boy got one orange purchased and brought to the dervish, who became very happy and blessed him that I have given you the sultanate of Hindustan (India) to you.

Later after several years, hundreds of slaves were brought before Iltutmish, then the king of Delhi. He purchased all but one – the same boy from Bukhara. That slave asked the king who do you purchase these slaves for? "For my own use", was the  reply of Iltutmish. He then requested why don’t you purchase me too for Allah. Iltutmish became very happy with the reply and purchased him too.

That slave worked in the court of Iltutmish and awarded the work of filling water. Later, he rose through ranks and became one of 40 esteemed viziers of Iltutmish. That boy from Bukhara was the same slave and was known as Ghiyasuddin Balban (1200-1287), one of the most powerful sultan of sultanate period. Balban was deputy to Nasiruddin Mahmud (1246-1266), who was also his son-in-law. He was effectively running the kingdom and then he became king after Mahmud’s death in 1266 and reigned till his death 1287. He considered himself as the descendants of mythical Persian kings and used to lofty standards. It is said that no one has seen him in laughing or jovial mood and he used to be serious always and had broken the back of elite courtiers, who were hitherto very powerful. It is also said that he always used to be in his formal royal dress.

His tomb lies in the Mehrauli Archaeological park  in a quite dilapidated condition. It was in the midst of an old settlement, the ruins of which were evident while approaching the tomb. It is said that he got erected a structure, known as Dar-ul-Aman (Place of Peace), where anyone can enter and put his problem, which will then become the problem of the state and got resolved. Therefore, in a way, people could get their problems resolved and lived in peace, hence Place of Peace. It is the same place where Balban was buried. It is also considered that his elder son Muhammad, known as Khan Shahid, was also laid in the adjacent chamber, who got killed in Multan fighting Mongols in 1285. Balban liked his elder son very much and his death broke him down and could not be able to live a year or so more. The structure is, though imposing rubble masonry, in complete ruin and even the approach road is through bushes and no proper pathway has been made. The structure was built of quartzite, which is locally available stone.

Jamali-Kamali Mosque

There are two structures by this name situated adjacent to each other– one is a mosque and another a mausoleum. The mausoleum complex contains  a number of graves and a covered grave of Jamali-Kamali. The interior of the chamber is quite ornamented but was not allowed to enter. It was considered that Shaekh Fazlullah was a sufi saint and was popularly known as Jamali. He was contemporary of Sikandar Lodi to Babur and Humayun. The antecedents of Kamali is not known but was associated with Jamali and are buried adjacent to each other. The graves inside are of marble and intricate carvings and letters engraved are legible. The graves in the complex are in good condition with engravings clearly visible. It was built during 1528-29.

The mosque is adjacent on the south of the tomb and is a wonderful example of Indo-Islamic architecture. Red sandstone, Marble and local quartzite stones are used in the mosque. The inner main prayer chamber has beautiful carvings and few Quarnic verses are engraved, which are still clearly legible. The floor is in square shape, whereas the roof is circular, a great piece of symmetry and architectural marvel. The mosque has five arches and the middle one is the largest and the most decorated. The mosque is huge, imposing and architecturally pristine. It is believed to be constructed during 1528-29. You would feel a sense of serenity while entering the mosque, which I felt there.

Tomb of Quli Khan

Moving towards North from the Jamali-Kamali mosque, one passes through beautifully profiled and maintained gardens on either side. One would reach this tomb site though a long culvert, which was constructed by Thomas Metcalfe, a British officer in Delhi. It was believed that he got constructed an artificial lake around the Quli Khan Tomb and culvert was the passage over the lake. He also used to visit the sites on boats.

The tomb of Quli Khan is an imposing structure of octagonal in same, placed on a raised pedestal. The gates of the tombs are intricately engraved with Quranic verses. Muhammad Quli Khan was the brother of Adham Khan, son of Maham Anga, the wet nurse of emperor Akbar. It was built in 17^th century.

Later the structure converted into a picnic retreat by Thomas Metcalfe, who enlarged the structure, creating lake in surroundings, water courses and pavilions. He named it as Dilkhusha (the pleasure of heart). He also got constructed a number of Follies and canopies nearby, one of which is intact in the park opposite Jamali- Kamali mosque.

Ideal time to visit

• Can be visited any time, preferably forenoon, round the year. 
• One needs to be ready with sports shoes, full sleeve shirt and water bottles.
• No tickets in any monument.

Places not to be missed
(with link to Wikipedia page)

• Balban's Tomb
• Settlement around Balwan's tomb
• Jamali-Kamali Mausoleum
• Jamali-Kamali Mosque
• Quli Khan's Tomb
• Metcalfe's addition to Quli Khan's tomb
• Metcalfe's Canopy
• View of Qutub Minar from the park

Some timelines

	Time Period	Reigns
Balban’s Tomb	1287
Jamali-Kamali Mausoleum	1528-29	Sikandar Lodi, Babur, Humayun
Jamali-Kamali Mosque	1528-29	Sikandar Lodi, Babur, Humayun
Tomb of Quli Khan	17th Century	Akbar

Nearest Metro Station - Qutub Minar (on Yellow line)


Gallery

Visit to Qutub Complex

I, along with few of my friends from college days and from my office, visited Qutub Minar Complex on 20^th July 2019. Though the Complex is open whole day but we decided to visit there in early morning, so as to avoid the huge rush of visitors. We decided to meet at 6.45 a.m. at the Complex and entered inside at 7.00 a.m. sharp. We were amongst few tourists there.

Though we all were familiar with history little bit but we were led by our guide and my office colleague, Mr Sanjeev Singh, who has a passion for knowing history as well as narrating it. He is a well read, well traveled and erudite person. He has read Babur Nama, Akbar Nama, Taarikh-e-Firozshahi etc.

Sarai (Above) & Mosque (below)

He informed us at the very beginning that three kings of Sultanate era contributed a lot in the development of the whole complex as being seen today. These are Qutbuddin Aibak, Iltutmish and Alauddin Khilji. After entering, on our right are a number of houses built along with a small Masjid. It has been explained that these are old structures & is a sarai ( سرائےtavern) and this was a resting place en-route for traders/ travelers who are going to Ajmer from Delhi. The whole complex is on a hillock i.e. a raised place compared to its surroundings.

We then moved further and saw the original boundaries of mosque built by Aibak. This is the first Masjid built in Northern India. The platform of  the structure looks like to be consisting of two different platforms – one is little old original structure and the front one was made later on with the stones available from adjoining structures.

RED-By Aibak, GREY -by Iltutmish, BROWN-by Khilji

Ibn Battuta, a Moroccon traveler, visited India in the early fourteenth century and narrated in his travelogue about this Masjid that he saw a white mosque with a red minar (Qutub Minar). Therefore, it is learnt that this mosque may be plastered white but there are no traces of the same in the complex nowadays.

Northern Gate

We entered the Masjid complex from Northern gate, as it has two more gate, one on the east and other on south. Usually all the Islamic buildings like mosques and mausoleums have three gates on North, South and East, while the West side is covered by a wall. It is due to the fact that In India, the direction of Ka’ba falls on west and that forms the Qibla (  قبلہdirection) and prayers are offered facing that side.

The path leading to Northern gate is dotted with graves of both male and female, which can be distinguished by a plate ( تختیtakhti) on female grave and a pen (قلم qalam) on male graves. The graves are in North-South direction with head on  North side.

Pillars on Courtyard

Inside the open courtyard (  سحنsahan) of Masjid, there are covered structures on all the three sides supported on number of pillars. These pillars seemed to be erected hurriedly as there are no matching of pillars with each other. The two corners have small double story space and it is assumed that it is meant for use of woman folks of the time.

Ruined walls & Iron Pillar

While moving from courtyard, you come towards main Masjid  building. Only dilapidated ruins of front wall remain now with beautiful carvings of Quranic verses. The roof of the structure is no more now. It was also informed by our guide that the arches and roofs erected during that time were not of true arch pattern and therefore, weak. This could be major reason why these arches and roofs are destroyed over time may be due excessive load or earth quakes. The true arches do have a key stone/ brick, which distributes the load equally and hence more stable. These arches were not developed at that time and were seen in the buildings of around 1300 AD, as in door of Alai Darwaza (Alai Gate).

Inscription on Iron Pillar

In the courtyard of the Masjid, there is an Iron Pillar, the inscription on it shows that it was built by Chandra Gupta II of Gupta Dynasty, somewhere in the Anga Pradesh  (one of the 16 principalities) i.e. present day Bihar. It looks like that the same was brought here and then erected as the un-polished portion at the bottom shows that it was not inserted to the height as was inserted at its original place.

Iltutmish Tomb

After finishing there, we moved towards right and exited from a small gate leading towards Tomb of Iltutmish. Iltutmish was a slave,  son-in law of Aibak, father of Razia Sultan and one of the great rulers of Slave Dynasty. He was credited with enhancing the area of Masjid as shown in the drawing. The tomb of Iltutmish is made of white marble and walls are of marble and red sandstone, with intricate carvings of Quranic verses. The roof of the structure is no more, apparently because of the same weak arch erection as was prevalent at that time. The actual tomb is well below the ground. This is notable for two main reasons, one it is one of the first structures, which uses the marble and intricate marble carvings. Secondly, it is probably the highest pedestal (taveez) from ground in any tomb in India.

On the east of this structure lies the ruins of ambitious Alai Minar, commanded by Alauddin Khilji to be built more than twice the height of Qutub Minar. But the basic structure of even first story could not be completed when Khilji died. The plinth area itself shows that this would have been a huge structure.

Alai Madarsah

While moving backwards towards south from Iltutmish’ tomb you may reach to quarter complex, built by Alauddin Khilji, on Southern and South-Western side of the mosque. This is Alai Madarsa (

Alauddin's Tomb

  مدرسہschool). The architectural style was improved and true arches became in use during this period. This complex also houses the tomb of Alauddin Khilji, which is in ruins. The structure shows that the tomb complex was supposed to be made grand but after the death of Alauddin Khilji, no one further built the same and even his tomb too is nothing more than a very small platform.

Iltutmish Gate (ruined Alai Minar in the background)

Alai Gate

When we moved again towards North, we entered Masjid’s courtyard, which is known as Iltutmish Gate and moved towards the Qutub Minar. Just adjacent to Qutub Minar is the entrance of Masjid built by Alauddin Khilji and is known Alai Darwaza (Alai Gate). This small building is made of marble and red sandstone with very intricate carvings and it is the finest building from architectural point of view in the complex. It is one of the early examples of Indo-Islamic Architectural style which later evolved to new heights. As discussed earlier, this building has true arch structure and hence more stable.

We moved out of this whole complex through a small door on the eastern side and came across another small structure, known as Tomb of Imam Zamin, which was built during Humanyun’s period. The internal portion of the tomb is small, yet very beautifully & intricately carved.

Qutub Minar from West side

We then moved towards a small structure cupola (chhatri) on the East side in the lawn, which is known as Smith’s Folly, which we will discuss in the next para. Explaining Qutub Minar from here, our guide explained that the base (plinth) of the Qutub Minar is on two platforms which are capable of taking weight of two stories of the minar. Aibak started its construction in around 1190 and completed first story. His successor, Iltutmish, completed all the four stories in 1220. The top story got destroyed during the lightening and Firoz Shah Tughlaq renovated it and made it of five stories with slightly more height.

Major Robert Smith renovated the tower in early 19^th century and placed a cupola (chhatri) at the top, which was later removed on the instructions of Lord Hardinge, the then Governor General in 1848 and placed on the lawn outside and as discussed above, it is known as Smith’s Folly (Smith ki Ghalati). Qutub Minar  has a entrance from the North side and has alternate circular and triangular pattern on the first story, followed by circular and triangular patterns on the second and third stories respectively. Marble is used in the fourth and fifth stories.

With friends, Alai Gate and Imam Zamin's tomb in background

On coming out from the complex, we saw two structures on either side of the exit – pyramidal shaped on the left and spiral shaped on the right. These are erected by Mr Metcalfe, a British Resident to keep a watch on the activities there.

With this, our Qutub visit concluded and we would take up visit to another heritage site in Delhi next week. I hope that this narration would probably instigate in you a desire to visit this momentous monument, which encompasses so much history in its small precinct.

Places not to be missed
(with link to Wikipedia page)

• Qutub Minar (obviously)
• Quwwat ul Islam Masjid
• Alai Minar
• Tomb of Iltutmish
• Tomb of Alauddin Khilji
• Alai Madrasah
• Tomb of Imam Zamin
• Smith's Folly
• Alai Gate
• Iltutmish Gate
• Sarai and small mosque
• Iron Pillar

Some timelines

	Started	Finished	Contribution
Qutub Minar	1192	1220	Qutbuddin Aibak Iltutmish Firoz Tughlaq British
Quwwat ul Islam Masjid	1193		Qutbuddin Aibak
Tomb of Iltutmish		1235
Alai Minar	1311		Alauddin Khilji
Tomb of Alauddin Khilji		1316
Alai Madrasah		1316
Alai Gate		1316
Tomb of Imam Zamin	1537	1538	Imam Zamin
Iron Pillar		402

Nearest Metro Station - Qutub Minar (on Yellow line)

Other tourist information - Delhi Tourism
 (online ticket booking)           Archaeological Survey of India 

Gallery

Iron Pillar

Qutub Minar from Masjid Courtyard

Wide angle view 

A parrot on column

Intricate carving first floor 

Unfinished Alai Minar

Qutub Minar from Alai 

Qutub Minar from front lawn

gate of Qutub Minar

Tomb of Iltutmish

Intricate carving on Alai Gate

Second floor of Qutub Minar

Top floor of Qutub Minar

Smith's Folly